By BILL CARAS
Late winter/early spring is a good time for pruning many outdoor plants but is certainly not the only time. Additionally, it is important to be aware that removing branches from spring blooming trees and shrubs means the sacrifice of the flowers (and fruit) those branches would have produced later in the season.
When pruning, it is generally far better to think of selective thinning rather than simply cutting back. In fact, indiscriminately cutting back can ruin the form of a tree to the point where recovery to a structurally strong, aesthetically pleasing canopy is difficult.
I often tell people to “prune from the bottom up” working out each branch and removing branches and/or branchlets that are downward hanging (except weeping trees), branches which are or will be crossing or crowding other branches and branches which are coming off the main trunk(s) at too low a height (head clearance).
Weak and/or injured branches should be removed if at all possible. Make cuts close to but not flush with the branch or trunk you are cutting to but try to leave the generally obvious “collar” undamaged.
In my opinion, the best looking trees are those that don’t look pruned at all. I love to see trees with full but open crowns (canopies); upward appropriately angled branching and, certainly, no stubby ends with dozens of “water sprouts” sticking up.
Think of a beautiful tree in a painting and the strength and peace of mind that image evokes. Do a little research as to the natural growth habit of the particular tree varieties you have. Then, use the simple techniques mentioned earlier but allow the tree to do most of the work.
Soon, someone may come by and ask to paint your tree! Back to Grow It Missoula blog home page.
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Bill Caras is a lifelong Missoulian whose family has been here over a century. The family business, Caras Nursery and Landscape, has operated from the same location on S. 3rd W. since 1896. Bill is a plant nut and draws from many years observation of all things related to gardening in western Montana. Still, he says, he learns something new every day.
Great information Bill. Who knew? I remember my grandmother taking a butcher knife to the bushes outside our utility room window–we never understood how in the heck they grew back! The joke was on us–she just trimmed them back at the right time of the year!! Thanks for sharing–and for helping me understand I CAN DO THIS MYSELF this year!
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Bill,
When trimming an apple tree are there any particular pruning tips? After trimming will the remaining fruit be larger or smaller that year? I have an apple tree that needs some major attention. Thanks for any tips you can give me.
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Hey Gail-Apples will respond to pruning, sometimes with lots of (unwamted) growth so you should be vigilant about keeping “water sprouts” from dominating the tree (through regular pruning). Otherwise, many apple varieties are “spur” types which refers to the short ,curled-finger looking branchlets. These are loaded with flowers and should not be pruned. off. The fruit may be thinned after fruit set to allow the remaining fruits to develop better and, conceivably, be larger. With larger trees this might be quite labor intensive and there are sprays that serve to thin the fruit. Apples do put a lot of energy into fruit production and many will only produce a crop every other year (alternate bearing). Apples generally have a rounded crown and will grow to 20-30′ for standard trees and 15′ or so for semidwarf and smaller yet for trees with dwarfing rootstalks. The most common pruning technique for apples is the “open center” (vase shaped) where all branches are removed from the center of the canopy while what’s left is encouraged to grow up and out for easy harvest. bc
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Great tips, Bill! Good to know I’ve done a lot of things right over the years. But oops, lots not done so well! Appreciate the insights and look forward to reading your blog!
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